Clear Fork of the Cowlitz

Is the sh*tz!

Brock was so stoked about getting back into the Cowlitz that he had to sing to us about it.

I had heard that there was this awesome run, close to the Cispus river that, was a rowdier, bigger version of Ernie's Canyon. I asked around, talked to the fellas and I was informed that while The Clear Fork of the Cowlitz was indeed super sick, it was off the table for the time being.

There had been a large rain event in Washington a couple years back and the entire river was full of wood. Not unlike the demise that befell it's southern neighbor Canyon Creek.

Then, last year, I heard a rumor that some of the Portland crew had gotten back in there. Then I heard about these two crazy brothers that showed themselves down at high water. I was interested.

Then Rob invited me on a trip and that made the bells go off: "maybe you shouldn't be doing this run Dan"

So, water levels came down and I forgot the fear. The 4th of July weekend presented a glorious 3 day weekend and Joe Howard was willing to throw his gear in the truck and go on an adventure. We decided to meet up with Brock, a Clear Fork veteran and see what we could do. Brad Xanthopoulos decided to do a last minute rally and meet us at the take out.

The Bennett book will give you a decent idea of where to start your journey. There is a turnout a little bit past the La Wis Wis campground. This leads to a dirt trail that leads you into the woods. Somewhere in these woods is the put-in to the CF Cowlitz.

The nature of this run is a little different from the Snoqualmie, Skykomish and Tumwater drainages. There is no shortage of sharp rocks, but the run is essentially bedrock. Not so much lava like the White Salmon or Little White. Maybe more like the Cooper. You're gonna lose some plastic. And, when logs pile up, they create some really nasty strainers so be on your toes. Depending on water levels you could have close to half a dozen wood portages.

Brock finds the goods. You will be rewarded for all your effort.

Lessons learned: Wear a drysuit you hate, because it's gonna get punished. Wear good shoes as even the chargers are gonna have several involved portages. They are not super technical, but they were a bit sketchy for us and we had bright sun and no ice or dew. Be prepared for a long day! Take snacks and extra fluids. This thing only comes in when it is "hot" in Washington, so you're gonna need the extra energy humping that boat of yours over all those logs and sieve piles.

So, long story short: CF Cowlitz is another great creek to add to your hit list. Make sure your skills, equipment and nerves are on par and up for the challenge. The description of this run being tougher than Ernie's is debatable. Then again I did not see this creek with a lot of water in it. So the nature of the rapids might change drastically.


Here is a video I put together showing most of the major rapids. I had the big camera with me and for some reason didn't pull it out until it was time for booty beers. I think I was just too gripped all day!





Get in there and have fun!

Joe and I woke up early and got a quick lap on the Ohane before we jetted up to Leavenworth to meet the crew.

There is no better place to be than Leavenworth Washington on a nice summer day.

Here is a video from the whole weekend. Joe and I did the tour-de-stouts in Washington. We started with CF Cowlitz, then a lap on the Ohanepecosh. Drove straight through to Icicle Creek for a couple Ricochet rounds and then into Tumwater Canyon and some decent flows. A solid weekend in the books for sure.





Another solid weekend in the books.

Stay Safe.

Video - 4Th of July Gnarfest

Over the 4th of July weekend, Joe Howard and I did a little bit of roadtripping. We drove down to the South side of Mt. Rainier for the Clear Fork of the Cowlitz. It was a bit low, but super fun. Then we grabbed a quick lap on the Ohanapecosh. From there it was a 3.5 hours of driving but North to Icicle Creek for probably the last laps of the season. Then we topped the weekend off with a handful of Tumwater laps. A great weekend was had.

First runs of the year - Little White laps

The Little White Salmon - LDuB

I will be the first to say that WASHINGTON STATE IS THE GREATEST PLACE ON EARTH!

That being said; we have two portions of the year that are less than ideal for kayaking in the PNW. September and January can both be dry (a relative term for WA). The rains do not arrive until mid February, during the winter, and this can cause some problems. 

It’s true: if you don’t use it, you will lose it. So, we must seek water where it hides. This time of year it hides deep in gorges. There was one Gorge, south of Seattle, that promised water.

It also promised to be cold as hell.

The phones rang all Thursday and Friday and excuses’ started to roll though the lines. SE boaters would laugh at the excuses’ we make to not have to drive 3 or 4 hours to boat. We are so used to calling an hour in the car a “long haul” that all of a sudden those Honey-Do lists start to look more appealing than boating.

By late Friday night it was settled. We were to be Hood River bound by 730am. The drive from Seattle to the fish hatchery that serves as a takeout for the Little White Salmon is just under 4 hours, from Everett (WA) its over 5 hours.

A decently sized crew rallied. We made a plan to meet up with locals at the takeout at about noon so we split up into two rigs and started the mission.

Somehow, we made it on time. The drive from Portland towards Hood River on HWY 84 is probably the closest thing to a wind tunnel you will ever encounter outside of a turbine test facility. You could feel the Subi lifting off the ground and moving over with each gust of wind. Unnerving doesn’t really describe the sensation.

We made it, and found fresh powder at the takeout.

LDuB is one of, if not “The”, best runs in Washington state. Maybe even the Pacific Northwest.  It’s incredibly scenic, challenging and most importantly: FUN. Keep in mind, this is a run that gets sandbagged by chargers and locals. This is a tough run. You need to be in shape, you need to be in the groove and you need to be able to take some licks. So check out footage and ask around before your maiden voyage.

We met up with Hood River transplants and headed up to the putin. I’m not gonna lie, I was sweating the entire drive up to the top. I hadn’t been in Little White in a couple of years and hearing stories about new, sketchy wood in “Getting Busy” (a mile long pingpong course) was wigging me out. Then there was the snow. It was really cold. But, as the situations tend to turn out, it was a great couple of days on the river.

The was new wood in the stretch immediately above Getting Busy. A mandatory portage at this level.

We definitely had lower water levels with 3.2 on the stick gage at the put in. But it was breathtakingly beautiful on the water. I do not know why or how, but the water that rams through that old lava bed is the coolest blue/green color I’ve ever seen. Its like boating on Gatorade. Contrasting this almost glowing blue was the inch or so of snow, everywhere. Snow on the trees, snow on the rocks and bank, snow falling into the river you’re trying to paddle. It was a surreal feeling, the way the snow dampens sound and makes colors and contrast stand out more prominently. Maybe this is the hunter-gatherer instinct shinning through; you don’t feel like you’re on top of the food chain in there.

Once we got into Getting Busy all the kinks started to work themselves out.

A large group made for a couple of photo opportunities:

We had a little bit of carnage, in Getting Busy, when the trees in the river decided to boof us.

 The boat was recovered below Boulder Sluice and the paddle was found the next day. We had a scary moment when the boat recovery turned into a double boat recovery and a soul searching couple of seconds…

A little ways downstream you come to S-Turn.

Photo Credit: J. Bisson

A short but very hazardous rapid. Boof any way you want, but never go near the lower river left wall. A horizontal lava tube creates an underwater cave that is barely visible even at these lower water levels. A swim here could be your last. Know your line and have a plan.

Photo Credit: J. Bisson

Photo Credit: J. Bisson

This beauty is waiting about halfway through the run. A lot of first-timers get duped into running Wishbone Falls blind on their virgin lap.


I jumped out of my boat below the canyon section to grab some photos of people charging the right side of Stovepipe. I think this is one of the coolest drops on the run!

Maybe a quarter to a half mile below Stovepipe is the infamous Spirit Falls. Most people stop and discuss their lines before firing up this monster, but I already knew my line! Far river right son!

Jeremy Bisson, however, was not about to have any of that nonsense. After giving me his camera to grab some stills, and some words of admonishment, he walked back to his boat while I slunk away to lick my wounds and take pictures.

Jeremy Bisson, with a SICK line!

Joe and I take to longer, dryer route.


 




Sunday: Round 2.

Getting warmed up below Island Drop.



Alex took the center line at Wishbone Falls.

 

On lap number two we had two takers for Spirit Falls. Jeremy wasn't happy with his line the previous day and wanted a rematch. Mike Nash decided to give'r a go as well.

Jeremy Bisson - Spirit Falls

Mike Nash - Spirit Falls

The lead-in to Chaos has a little branch in it.

The takeout had a fine layer of snow and we all had to step back and take it all in.

When it was all said and done, we were sad to leave. The Little White in the dead of winter is an unreal experience and I'm stoked that I got to see it with some of the best people I know.

 Heres a quick little shot of some fun on Wishbone:

Stay Safe. Stay STOKED.