Jefferson Creek

I was finally able to put on my big boy pants and get back on Jefferson Creek.



The run out below Island Drop. Jefferson Creek, WA.


     Darren Albright took me down Jefferson my first season of creeking (before I knew better) and I had some really good times in there, then I decided to put on during a high water event and had an interesting day. I hadn't been back into Jefferson Creek in almost two years (since February of 2010).



The biggest drop on Jefferson, Below Island Drop.
Jefferson Creek, WA.


     Jefferson Creek is a rarely run Olympic Peninsula gem of a river, it's not even in the Korb guide (our only guide for the OP's watersheds). To say that Jefferson is Ldub's slightly younger and sluttier cousin wouldn't be far from the truth... Its steep and technical but overall not a very difficult run. That being said, I had my closest call on this Creek in the winter of 2010. Lost a boat and paddle and probably came closer to losing something else much more intangible.

Bottom Two ledges in Island Drop. Jefferson Creek.

Here's a little video from the next day when the water had dropped a little bit and I hiked in to where I swam:





And here is a clip from when I went back in a couple weeks later to try and regain some pride:


     Jefferson Creek is about an hour from my house and happens to be one of the closest quality runs available to us Kitsap County residents. Sadly, it probably only sees a handful of runs a year. Due to it's lack of a river gauge, it's remote location and the general tendency of the Olympic Peninsula to throw a wrench in even the most well though out plans, not many people make the pilgrimage. A typical winter or early spring phone call trying to convince a Seattlite to come out West goes something like this:

Ring, ring...
Seattle Boater: "Hello?"
Me: "Dude! Whats up? You boating today?"
Seattle Boater: "hmmm, whats in? Whats Robe at?"
Me: "Dunno, Robe's low, so is Ernie's."
Seattle Boater: "Well. What you thinkin?"
Me: "Elkhorn is in... Jefferson might be..."
Seattle Boater: "You think it'll be in?
Me: "Sure, maybe. I think so. Darren says it's good to go I think."
Seattle Boater: " I think I'm gonna hit the Sky."
Me: "ehh."
Click-

     Sadly this is how the majority of Saturday, potential OP madness days, end before they even start. It's understandable though so I don't hold a grudge or withhold a throwbag. We are so spoiled here in the PNW that its hard to convince someone take a chance on a creek that may or may not have water in it (or too much...) when you can run out and get on the Skykomish or the Green. But... Jefferson has treats, I digress:

One of many rapids on Jefferson Creek, WA.

     A tributary to the Hamma Hamma, access is no issue. A well manicured forest service road in the Hamma Hamma recreation area takes you right to the take out and then its a 5 mile drive up to the put in. The run is only 2.1(ish) miles long, but its continuous class IV+-V for all but a couple hundred feet of those 2.1 miles. The run is roadside-ish... easy to get into, not so easy to get out of. Once you leave the put in, the creek drops off the face of the earth and a hike out of the canyon to the road could take hours, see above video.

     American Whitewater has the creek's gradient listed as 260 feet per mile. Steep, considering that there are no waterfalls or even ledges higher than 10 feet on the run. Sounds fishy right? It's riverbed is made up of big sheets of bedrock and dotted with huge smooth boulders that sometimes sport a mantle of timber from high water events. While the big boulders in the gardens are round and unassuming, the average rock in the creek bed is sharp and jagged. The pin potential on this run increases exponentially with a decrease in water level. If you can, bring a beater boat for your first couple of trips and do not forget your elbow pads!



     The scenery in this drainage is out of this world! At the put in, the river is pretty level and there isn't much gradient so it just appears to be another densely forested OP run. Then you drop in and you find yourself almost locked into this gorgeous canyon. Handhold-less vertical walls limit your view of the sky and your route of escape at times. Then, around other corners, nothing but beautiful deep emerald green trees coming all the way down the banks into the water. As on most Olympic Peninsula runs, you need to be on your toes for wood. There is always wood in this run, its just a question of how involved you have to get when you find it. There are several spots on the river where you paddle under the natural lattice work created by high water events and the trees of past.

At least you don't have to duck at these levels...

     One of the coolest things about this river is the water. First off, its cold. Bone cold, so bring your pogies and a drysuit is a must. The water is this bluish green color that looks almost carbonated. I don't know if this is due to porous rock or just the turbulence of the water, but its pretty cool to see and feel non-the-less.

Ridiculous Scenery

Goods for days and days.

     There are several diligent Olympic Peninsula residents that spend a lot of time in the summer and fall keeping runs like Jefferson free of wood that would require portaging and we all owe them. As of right now, there is only one portage and even that is debatable. I had heard about Rob running the portage on accident during a really high water run and now Darren and Rob regularly run the drop in question.

Darren mid portage.

     Describing the rapids is all but useless, its like describing Ernie's Canyon: there are just too many rapids in there to accurately describe them in any other situation or setting than the eddy above the drop in question. Or, maybe its just because it's one long rapid... I'm sure the majority of them have names and correct lines but to be totally honest, I've only scouted two drops on the run and those are pretty straight forward. This also accounts for the distinct lack of quality photos, there's no time to jump out and take shots when you're flying down the run at 90mph.

     Either way, if you like incredibly dense forest scenery, bedrock slides, technical creeking and water that looks like it came out of a Disney movie make your way out to Jefferson Creek. Snap in, get a death grip on your paddle and start smiling!




y







If the takeout looks like this, ask yourself one question: "Am I Rob McKibbon?".
If the answer is "no": Go home.



Its hard to judge level at the takeout as the river bed changes so much here, use the island in the stream bed looking upstream from the bridge as point of reference.

Another shot of Island Drop. Jefferson Creek, WA.



Chillin on the bank below Island Drop.



The final Chelan Gorge release.

Left to right: Brad Xanthopoulos, Ben Hawthorne, Scott Waidelich, Brett Barton, Me, Dave Morales and Chris Totten


This past September was the final two releases in the Chelan Gorge.

I spent the summer in Virginia Beach, Virginia for work and was unable to rally a crew for the June or August releases this year. I watched the local forums in dismay as one release after another was canceled due to a lack of interest. I came back to the great state of Washington at the end of August and was chomping at the bit to get into the Gorge for the first September release.

Adrian Wigston flew in from San Diego and we spent Labor Day weekend on the North Fork of the Payette as a warm up for Chelan the following weekend. The first release day on Saturday was canceled due to a lack of interest. The Chelan PUD requires that there be at least 6 kayakers signed up the day before the release to ensure safety. But Sunday we had six people and it was ON!

2011 has been a magical year of kayaking for me, among other amazing trips I was thrilled to be offered the opportunity to join a group of kayakers that asked to be part of a test release on the Chelan Gorge in Chelan, WA.

            

            The Flow Feasibility study that I was fortunate enough to be part of is year three of a three year, federally required test that was part of the deal when the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission (FERC) issued an operating license back in November of 2006. This is due to the hard work of American Whitewater and specifically Thomas O’keefe. At the end of the 3 year study the Chelan PUD will be required to submit a recreation resources management plan (RRMP), which will include an assessment of recreational use and needs within the Lake Chelan basin including the power boating needs of the reservoir and whitewater kayaking needs in the gorge.

                                      Adrian Wigston gets warmed up before Entrance Exam

            Local agencies have voiced their opinions about recreational use of the Chelan Gorge. They have raised objections to the Gorge's use by kayakers due to the hazards that the locals know lay hidden deep within that gorgeous crack in the earth. With this in mind, while in the canyon, we are under constant scrutiny. You can get glimpses of the Chelan PUD personnel and security peering down at us from the canyon rim. An accident in here could mean that the study ends and no more kayaking in the gorge until the operating license is back up for renewal.

           

Brad and Joe stand guarde @ Boulder Sieve

            Because these releases are part of a study required by the FERC, the local PUD takes it very seriously. We were greeted at the takeout for the gorge by Kris Pomianek, the project leader,  as well as two security guards. We signed in and briefly went over what was expected of us while we were in the gorge and immediately after. We were given numbered cards after our identification was checked and told to hand them to the dam personnel at the top of the gorge before putting on.

           

                                  Pat in Entrance Exam

            Your first vision of the Chelan gorge is from hundreds of feet above the water from your eagles perch high on the cliffs above Entrance Exam. Peering down into that sand stone canyon, I tell myself the rapids don’t look so bad and that people have been talking this up. But then I hear a good friend and Chelan gorge veteran say “Just wait ‘till they turn the water on boys!” My stomach sinks but I still say “It looks like it will still go with more water” when asked about the first major rapid that is visible.

           

            At the put in, as you look down from the put in to the river you are at first struck by how little water there is in the wide river bed. It looks like you’ll barely make it down. When you think about it 400 cfs is not a lot of water separating you from the rocks.

           

                                         Marco Collela


                       Adrian gets ready for Entrance Exam


                Brett Barton warming up before Entrance Exam

            You get to warm up on 3 miles of class 2 with two or three class 4 rapids thrown in before you get to the (in my opinion) toughest rapid in the run. Entrance Exam.

Looking downstream @ Entrance Exam

Entrance Exam is not a technically difficult rapid, its just one of those drops that gives me a sinking feeling in my chest when I look at it. First you see the lead in rapid and then the first horizon line. As you saunter down the right side of the river to scout you can’t help but notice that there is no way out of the canyon. All but vertical walls surround you.


                           Upstream View of Entrance Exam

There are four distinct drops in Entrance Exam: The lead in rapid with an interesting hole at the bottom, The first 6-8’ ledge with a distinct U-shape, then the “Pile-Up” a river wide hole with an air of carnage about it and finally the “Final Plunge”. The entire river drops and funnels through two rocks roughly 8 feet wide.

           

Adrian, Matt, Jon and Scott weighing options @ Entrance Exam

            Entrance Exam is, in my opinion, the hardest but also the safest rapid of the day. It’s steep, dynamic in nature but has plenty of open space for safety to be set by your mates.


                           Team Safety: Hard as Fuck.

           

Alex Podolak smashes Entrance Exam

Entrance Exam Photo Dump:


                                                            Brad @ Entrance Exam


                                     Brett Barton gets set


                           Ellie Wheat eyes up Entrance Exam


                                                           Ellie drops into Entrance Exam


                                                               Decides to rodeo a bit


                                                      Darren Albright @ Entrance Exam


                                                                          Team Safety


                                                Brad says: "It's all good" @ Entrance Exam


                                     Brett knows better...

            Some fast and fun boogie water brings you to The Chelan Slide. Chelan slide is just that, two slides side by side separated by an alligators back of rough stone. The river left side is very manageable. Not very steep and not much to speak of except for being a good photo opportunity. The river right side is a different story all together. It is very steep, choked and has a nasty hydraulic at the bottom that was dubbed the Meat Locker by Brett Barton. The line goes, but the boaters who venture to the right side are in the minority.


Scott Waidelich likes to dip his toes in warm water before a stout run.


                                        Matt Kurle opt's for the left line @ Chelan Slide


              Alex and Marco decide to give the right side a go.

           

            Directly below is pure boofing bliss. Super Boof is maybe 6 feet tall and is one of the cleanest boofs you will ever see. Drive up on the rock on river left and you will pop up in to the air like your boat is part pogo-stick.

           
                                                     Scott Waidelich @ Super Boof


                                                             Brett Barton @ Super Boof


                                                            Sam Grafton @ Super Boof

            A small emerald pool separates you from the bottom of Super-Boof and the lip of Throne, one of the more intimidating rapids on the run. There is an ominous almost natural looking warning that your eyes are drawn to high above you on the rock as you boof into sheer bliss running Super-Boof. “The point of no return” is crudely spray painted on the rock face staring you down bringing back memories from high-school history class of the pictographs found in the oldest caves.


                                                            Dave Morales @ Throne

                                                             Joe Howard @ Throne

            Throne is a straightforward drop. You see the line from the top. But you also see Pinnacle Falls waiting below Throne. Pinnacle Falls had not been run until the final Sunday release, and for good reason. Throne has plenty of room to set up safety on both sides of the river and this is highly recommended as a swim over the 20 foot Pinnacle Falls would likely be fatal. There is an almost river wide boulder sieve below Pinnacle Falls waiting for the unwary boater or the unfortunate swimmer. Throne is a 12-14 foot off vertical fall that is run just right of center aiming slightly right. There is an interesting hydraulic that sometimes pushes you into the cup shaped “Throne rock” on river left. Stay out of there.

           

            The Portage route for Pinnacle Falls is on the river right side of the falls. Unless you're Rob MiKibbon, in which case there is no portage route.

Rob McKibbon does pushups before his first descent of Pinnacle Falls.

           

            The Boulder Sieve comes immediately after the portage and is not to be taken lightly. On every occasion I have been in the Gorge, we had someone get out on the rocks upstream of the Sieve and stand out in the water to help direct boats. You have to ferry across the outflow of Pinnacle Falls and then make your way to the center left side of the sieve area. There is barely enough water to scrape over the rock and having someone there to give a helping hand can literally be a life saver.


                         Adrian Wigston styling Boulder Sieve

           
                                    Scott Waidelich shows the line @ Boulder Sieve


                                       Joe Howard says it's good to go @ Boulder Sieve

            Once past the Boulder Sieve you have two rapids left and you’re done. Fat Lady and Extra Credit. Both are boulder gardens of a class 4 nature but with a lot of sieves and undercuts lurking just below water level. There is one very bad but almost unnoticeable sieve at the very bottom of Fat Lady, reminding you that it’s not over until the fat lady sings.

                            Adrian Wigston @ Boulder Sieve

           
                                                     Jon Shelby @ Extra Credit

                                                              Jon Shelby @ Fat Lady



Good times.

           

            When dismantled into its pieces and parts, the Chelan Gorge, is not a tough run. Its intimidating nature, tight lines and lack of room for error make it a very trying novelty to have under your belt. In my opinion, the experiences I was part of on those memorable weekends under the hot Chelan sun and watchful eyes of the Chelan PUD exemplify why I choose to kayak class V and push my personal limits. The stress and anticipation, coupled with the unspoken bonds of trust that are present deep in that canyon, is an experience that helps me grow as a person and a member of a larger group. The pain and nervousness dissipate at the end of the day after a successful run and are replaced by a glow that takes days, sometimes weeks to go away. I can go back to work and plug away knowing that I will be back out there with my brothers, doing battle with my inner fears soon enough.

Cheers.

Stay Safe